April 10, 2007

The Philippines

A belt of more than 7,000 islands, it’s presumptuous for one to expect to see all the sights and sounds in one trip. Most people go there for the sands and the seas, but due to the nature of my trip (more to visit my dad who’s working there), it’s more of the land AND the land. Haha…

Generally, the Philippines can be divided into a few areas – Luzon, wherein lies the frenetic capital Manila and its accompanying horrendous traffic, the scattered Visayas, and Mindanao in the South (where mostly we all know to avoid for now).

Here’s a map showing how we’re zooming around the place…

map

Map of the Philippines

We fly into the Ninoy Aguino International Airport via Jetstar, then we (or rather, Loi the superb driver) fights through the horrendous traffic in Metro Manila, bursting into the highway with great relief and finally settling base at Vivere Suites at Alabang, where our Dad lives. He works in Cabayao, some 30min drive away.

The general itinerary as planned by my very good planner/map reader/bargain king-in-training/alcohol-inclined brother Weiqi is as follows:

Day 1: Arrival, afternoon at Festival Mall, dinner at Alabang Town Centre
Day 2: Pagsanjan Falls, lunch at Café 83 (traditional food)
Day 3: Volcano Island, Tagaytay Ridge
Day 4: Fort Santiago, Rizal Park, Intramuros, Metro Manila shopping part 1
Day 5: Metro Manila Makati district, Green Hills Shopping Centre
Day 6: Rest day (light shopping)
Day 7: Get up before dawn to journey up North to Baguio
Day 8: Journey further North to Banaue for the rice terraces.
Day 9: Back to Alabang
Day 10: Depart for home sweet home!

Now people who’ve traveled with me know that this OCD streak runs in the family!

The travelers:
My dad: You’ll notice that he probably looks Filipino already. He has this weird knack for appearing like locals in a few Asian countries, notably M’sia & Japan. I’m thankful I’m not dark like him.
My mum: She’s the one who nags and worries (like all our mums), and generally clears up all the mess we create.
My bro: The mastermind of this trip, who bought the MOST items. Also the one who leads the way, and occasionally gets mistaken for being local cuz he’s so chaotah (as a result of NS)
Me: The doperizer
Loy from the Safari company: That’s my Dad’s driver. It’s really thanks to him that we navigate the habitual jams here without much problems, and that our car climbs cliffs and turns sharp corners without sending us into the deep waters… I’ll do a Loy special later…

Trip & Arrival

View of Manila

This is my first trip on a budget airline! So how was it?

Well, overall the experience was better than expected. I had been expecting a really noisy engine, loads of turbulence and perhaps really horrible, run down planes… but ok, it was better overall. The only complaint (not that I’m like complaint-queen) is about the air-stewardesses. More like marketing aunties in fact, they make more noise than the 180 passengers in total! Can clap, stamp feet and jump up and down! I wonder where they were trained… Landing was ultra-bumpy but kind of fun; it reminded me of roller-coaster rides. :) The Ninoy Aguino International Airport was well, around what you’d expect it to be. It was very crowded but still fairly well-planned, as in they had this road cutting through two sidewalks. One side mainly contained the arrivals, and the other held people waiting for their relatives. It’s called the extended meeting area, and the area was subdivided alphabetically, assuming that one would go to the letter corresponding to one’s first name. Ie. My dad made us wait in area ‘ABC’.

First Impressions

  • Weather

It’s just hot HOT HOT over there! Incidentally, April-May is a bad time to travel. It’s the peak of the hot season… Humidity is lower than in Sg, so at least you dun suffer from sticky armpits and all that stuff, but the heat’s burning and you easily get sunburnt.

  • Transport

It was a harrowing 1.5 hours car ride to the hotel. Traffic there IS indeed a killer. Be warned, it’s difficult to move around in the Philippines if you don’t have a car. And it’s also not possible to drive around yourself; the roads sometimes do not have markings. Amazingly, despite it all, I witnessed fewer motor accidents here than in SG. Even at double cross junctions where there are NO road markings, NO traffic lights and a miserable guard who really can’t direct the traffic unless he’s got extra limbs.

Taxis are seen but my dad says they don’t go by meters or maybe they’ve got ‘faulty’ er-hem meters, so it can be tough haggling. As for the Metro, I didn’t get the chance to experience it. For the locals, the most convenient and popular way to travel short distances is by the Jeepneys.

jeepney

Jeepney

Another Jeepney! 

The Jeepney is like a cross between a jeep and a bus. It’s converted from those old American jeeps left behind when the troops withdrew. Now, they’ve got all sorts of colourful words, designs and the routes painted/stuck on the sides and they sort of travel very un-designated routes. Apparently they can be flagged down anywhere and there really are no safety precautions ie. If you’re game for it, you can still get on an already sardine-packed ride by clinging precariously to the back, or perhaps squeezing in with the driver up front. Anyway, we weren’t adventurous enough to brave it. Heh.

  • Culture

Hmm, the people here from my impressions are divided into either EXTREMELY rich (some perhaps filthy rich, you know what I mean) or very very poor. Generally, the Chinese are richer, and apparently some areas aren’t too friendly to them. The rich people have just acres of land which they fence up, sort of like a fort, and according to my dad who’s visited some of these places, their house looks like a palace… The poorer people live in small houses, often grouped together around a square courtyard or flanking an unpaved road, and at the entrance they might hand a banner that says: Village of Ernesto, for example. It’s all rather new and different. We do get some kids sort of asking for change along the streets in Metro Manila, but at least they don’t rush at you like Gypsies or like in other countries.

The Filipinos are a very gracious and polite group of people. Everyone, including the doorman at the supermarket greats the men as ‘Sir’ and women as ‘Mam’. I suppose it’s cuz we do look foreign… But I notice that even amongst locals, they’re very polite. There’s no pushing or rushing, no cutting queues, and if they so as lightly knock into someone else, they apologise. How often do you get this in Sg? Service here is excellent! Dunno who told me it was horrible, but they really are very helpful here, as my mum can attest to it. Lolz… A group of salesgirls helped my mum unwrap quite a few cookbooks cuz she wanted one that was on ‘local cuisine’ and at the same time they were introducing all the good food and telling her the prices of some of the seafood… and yea, teaching her some tagalog words too! Lolz…

  • Security

A very er-hem friend cursed me with respect to being spirited away at a bar and then waking up with one less kidney, and then pointing at this beautiful picture of a lake and insinuating that the rebels were hiding in clusters… But anyway, I don’t think it’s as scary here as it says in the papers. I suppose crimes happen in every country, and as long as we just try to be careful and don’t do stupid things like following a stranger into some isolated area in a bid to get cheap goods, we should be fine. One thing is, you’ve got to get used to the guards standing around at street corners or directing the traffic. And at the entrance of every departmental stall, they will take a cursory peek into your bags.

  • Language

The national language is Tagalog, which is actually one of their many many local dialects (a bit like how Italian’s national language is). Tagalog is an interesting mix of Polynesian/Malay, English, and Spanish. Kind of interesting cuz when you meet a word of Tagalog origin, you pronounce it that way, but when you see any Spanish word, you gotta pronounce it the Spanish way. Cool rite? Another thing to be aware of is that if they don’t know/or cannot do something for you, they will still say ‘ok’ or ‘yes’. It’s as if it were bad manners to say ‘no’. So when you are there, I do advise you to speak slowly, clearly and look at their facial expressions when they reply…

Vivere Suites

Vivere Suites - Alabang

Alabang is found in the city of Muntinlupa, the southern-most city of Metro Manila. That’s where my dad lives, and he has to take a 30min drive daily out to Cabayao, which is something like our Science Park in SG. Loy stays in Las Piñas City, about 20min drive away. Muntinlupa is a rather progressive city, and there’s quite a lot of people staying around the Alabang area here for conferences and stuff. Most notably is the Ayala Alabang Village which is a really huge residential community housing all the rich and famous. So I suppose security down at Alabang is pretty good.

A lovely lobby & reception

Interior of the hotel

Skyline – Restaurant with a view…

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Manila

We mainly only toured the Makati district and the old historical part chiefly made up of Fort Santiago, Intramuros and Rizal Park.

Fort Santiago

It’s one of the oldest fortifications in Manila, built on the old settlement of the Rajah.  It was also the former headquarters of the British occupation army…  And then again by the US before it was turned over to the Philippine Governmnet.  It’s rather small, with a huge central quadrangle, surrounded by stone walls, a small area with a memorial, the ruins of the Rajah’s theatre and some gardens…  There’s also a chapel with a tunnel leading to it, some old prisons and barracks. 

Overview of the Fort Santiago

Centre piece in Fort Santiago

Memorial

This was built for the 600 victims whose bodies were found in a dungeon, testament to the atrocities perpetrated by the Japanese during the WWII. 

View of the River Pasig from the top of the fort. 

In one of the courtyards, is a statue of José Rizal, revered national hero who has a shrine dedicated to him in there.  There, one can read ‘Mi Ultimo Adios’ (My Last Farewell) which was smuggled out of his prison cell there inside an oil lamp.  He was executed at ~30 yo for inciting revolution against the Spanish colonials.  It is also a memorial to all the Filipinos who have fought or died for the cause of freedom. 

Intramuros

Intramuros is the old Spanish area of Manila with really massive walls that used to surround imposing government buildings, stately homes, churches, convents, monasteries, schools, hospitals and cobbled plazas. 

Muralla (can barely see the tiny sign on this wall… it’s a really really thick wall)

Just a nice street corner… love the way the cables cross at the street lamp.

Rizal Park

I thought this was gonna be like that park in Madrid but how wrong I was…  First, my bro made us enter through the exit meant for the GARBAGE (that’s what you get for trusting his short cuts…) and then the park looked so withered it was so sad!  There’s also a Orchidarium, Chess Plaza and even a Planetarium, but it was so freaking hot we took the direct route from entrance to exit and then headed for the sanctuary of the air-conditioned malls. 

The park’s dedicated to José Rizal, with 8 tableaux of life-size bronze statues that recreate the last scenes of his life.  At night, there’s a light-and-sound presentation. 

Rizal Park

It also has a Japanese garden area, as well as a Chinese garden area… which erm well, let’s not go there… 

Monument at the Rizal Park

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Pagsanjan Falls

Located South of Manila, it took us (Loy actually) only 2.5 hours drive there thru the torrendous traffic.  It houses the Pagsanjan Falls, or more accurately, known as the Magdapio Falls.  The Vietnam War movie Apocalypse had some of it’s final scenes taken there, as our guides kindly pointed out. 

It’s one of the tourist attractions with more hassling…  They keep trying to overcharge the tourists, so much so that the local government has put up so many signboards announcing the market rate for those sampan rides to the falls. 

Unfortunately, the banceros in my sampan (merely a boy of like 14 yo perhaps?) and another of 20 perhaps…  couldn’t speak much English… At one point, the kid tried to point out an attaction to us…  he said something stone…  Supposedly an animal… And my bro and I went like:  Huh, er… frog stone?  elephant stone?  lion stone?  When we saw the stone it didn’t help matters either…  -_- 

The best time to ride the rapids is during the wet season of Aug-Sept, unfortunately I had to go during the DRYEST season which meant that the tide was so low and at places the sampan’s bottom scrapped rocks! 

I got awfully sunburnt there…  my legs became two-toned ONLY anteriorly, you know how comical that is… 

It takes 1 hour by sampan (2 per boat) to get to the falls and you past by a couple of rest stops.  One of them’s the Bridal Veil waterfalls, a very tiny fall…  And then finally reach the Pagsanjan Falls!  Changed from sampan to raft…  The raft actually started sinking and people were like ew ew ew we’re wet… haha little do they know how wet they were really going to get. 

Bridal Veils Falls

In short, everyone was soaked to the skin, and not just that, I think I got bruised by the weight of the water falling upon my shoulders…  Onto my sunburnt shoulders…  No wonder I’m still peeling one week later…  -_- 

After that, I was in my wet clothes the entire day!  Desperately trying to dry off… Haha we all went to lunch wet, at Cafe 83.  A real quaint place that cooks authentic local fare…  Quite enjoyable! 

Interior of Cafe 83

On our way back, we dropped by the Santa María Basilica, the biggest church in SEA.  It looks like your average-sized church in Spain…  But it’s quite run-down but it has the most lovely ruins behind…  :D

Façade of the Santa María Basilica

Interior of the Santa María Basilica

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